Easy Hunting Tips Blog |Deer , Bear, Duck, Elk , Phesant, and Hunting dog tips.

When we pack up all our gear and head off for hunting season, one of the items we often leave behind is a camera. Whether you’re a great photographer or not, having even the most basic camera on hand can be useful in the field.

If you have a compact digital or traditional camera, that’ll do nicely. Many seasoned hunters recommend packing a three-pack of disposable cameras into the rest of your gear - this way if they get lost or broken, no one cares, but you have them on hand if you need them.

A great way to involve friends or family members in the hunt is to take them along to document your trip. A relative who loves taking pictures of the outdoors is ideal for this job, but your nephew armed with a digital or disposable camera will do just as well. Have them fill in a hunt journal for you and take photos of areas you want to remember for next year. Also, taking pictures of your trophy before it’s butchered is always a bonus.

One of the keys to success in hunting is placing an accurate shot - whether you hunt with a bow or a firearm, this sentiment rings true. So what is important when setting up your perfect shot, and perhaps more importantly, which shots should you let slip by? Though the window for placing your shot of a lifetime may be only seconds, it’s important to exercise good judgement and aim to place your shot as effectively as possible.

Good shots are clear, no brush or other obstructions between you and your quarry. Don’t take aim An ideal shot can be made when an animal is quartering away or presents itself broadside to you. Either of these gives you a clean shot at the vital organs allowing you to dispatch the animal quickly and ethically.

The golden rule, so to speak, is being sure you’re aiming at the right target. This ensures safety for bystanders and other hunters. Bear in mind you should know what lies beyond your intended target, as a bullet or arrow can potentially carry on and cause serious harm to someone further a field.

When you’re trying to pick a hunting dog, there’re a multitude of factors to consider. Probably the most important is the breeder you’ll be buying from. It’s the breeder you’ll have a contract with, the breeder you’re giving your money to and ultimately the breeder who is responsible for ensuring your pooch gets the best possible start in life.

Look for a breeder who is well established, and has a good reputation with the local community as well as in the wider ‘dog breeder’ circles. Choose a breeder who focuses on a particular kind of retriever - some breeders will breed just about anything, and you’re not interested in ‘just anything’, you’re interested in a great dog that gets results. Your chosen breeder should provide appropriate certificates to show that the sire and dam of the litter are free from hip, eye, elbow and other common health defects.

Also, aim to find a breeder with good show and hunt trial credentials. Some breeders do not show or trial their dogs, and there’s nothing wrong with that providing the pedigree they can offer is beyond reproach. However, a breeder who also hunts, or enters their dogs in competitions, has a vested interest in ensuring the pups they produce meet exacting standards.

Choosing the right weapon for firearms hunting is essential to success in your pursuit. Arguably the most popular weapon used in firearms hunts is the rifle. And there are plenty of variables to consider when hunting with a rifle. As you check out the hunting rifles on offer, consider it’s fit, sight, weight and action, as well as it’s caliber.

Judge the rifle’s fit by holding the gun tight to you shoulder, and pressing your cheek against the stock. The stock should slide easily in and out of your armpit area, and the scope shouldn’t bite into your eyebrow. With your cheek pressed against the stock, your shooting eye should be in line with the sight - if you need a shorter or longer stock, a gunsmith can adjust this for you.

The average hunting rifle weighs between six and ten pounds - lighter guns are easier to pack around, but heavier guns dole out less abuse when fired. The action of your rifle should be chosen by assessing your own skill and deciding what you need most. Bolt-action rifles are generally more reliable, particularly in cold climates or rough terrain.

Getting the calibre of your hunting rifle right relies on you having a sound knowledge of the game you’re going after. While a .270 is fine for deer hunting, it’s simply not enough for running down a brown bear.

When we talk about being prepared for our hunt, we focus on things to take that make our time in the field successful. We make lists of essential safety gear and supplies, but often overlook the needs of our travelling companions - particularly those with four legs.

Just as you make sure you’ve got enough food for the people in your party, be sure there’s plenty for Fido. On a similar line, you’ll want to be sure you bring fresh water for the dog to drink, just like you bring water for yourself - particularly in the early part of the season, when summer temperatures cling on, adequate hydration is just as important for your dog as it is for you.

Another important consideration is field first aid. You pack at least a limited first aid kit for yourself and those in your party on the off chance that one of you gets hurt. But what about your dog? In addition to common sense things like keeping an eye on his legs and eyes for possible injury, pack a first aid kit especially for him. Include cotton balls, swabs, gauze pads, adhesive tape, saline solution, scissors, toenail clippers, bedadine scrub and a steroid-free ophthalmic ointment. In the event of a mishap on the field, your dog will thank you.

In the run up to hunting season, you will no doubt service your weapons, check your gear for damage or repair requirements and pick up a few new bits to replace worn or weary kit as you go. A lot of hunters overlook the importance of keeping their dog in top form during the off season.

Hunting dogs are a huge investment - the pedigree and initial training alone can be staggering costs for the average person to absorb. But we suck it up, sign the checks and smile, knowing that our investment in Fido will be well worth it in the long run. The trouble is, overlooking your dog’s fitness in the off season will lead to reduced performance when the season opens up again.

Aim to keep working your dog through the year - practice with him often. Aim to run a half-hour series of drills reinforcing your dog’s key skills every other day. If your dog is used to working in the water, build up his time on land work gradually so he doesn’t get bored or frustrated with it.

With a topographical map and a compass, you can make the most of your time in the woods. Knowing the terrain your chosen prey inhabits is just as important as packing the right gear - after all, knowledge is power.

If you’re hunting an animal you’re unfamiliar with, be sure to get acquainted with their habits. Learn all you can about the type of cover they like to sleep in, their favorite meals and how far they’re likely to roam in a day. Then, take that knowledge and layer it over the information you can gather about the area you’re going to be hunting.

Study a topographical map of the area, identify any low-lying areas that the animals might use for bedding or loafing cover. If at all possible, scout the land in person so you can gain an appreciation of the cover and food on offer - as well as the terrain itself.

Combining all this information will give you a true leg up on the competition when the hunt pressure is on during the season. Plus, in the event of a mishap, it may help you save vital time getting out of the wilderness and back to safety.

Dog is main’s best friend and is always there for you, such as the pheasant hunting lab dogs, which have a lot to do with functional requirements and the hunting roots of their initial traits. Each breed is built to do a particular job and skill, but the dog needs to “want to do it” with proper socialization and adequate training. The breed, such as the pheasant hunting lab dogs, each have particular coats, gaits, substances, expressions, and overall looks of that specific breed in order to meet the breed’s standards.

The pheasant hunting lab dogs, or the Labrador Retriever, originated out of Newfoundland as an all-purpose water dog prior to the 1800s. Originally considered to be a Newfoundland instead of a Lab, it was called the St. John’s Newfoundland. They were bred to retrieve game and fish, bred as a medium-sized black dog with short and close hair. These dogs were also capable of pulling the Newfoundland small fishing boats through the icy water as an assistant to the sailors. But this amiable, gentle, and devoted hunting dog has evolved into one of the most popular dogs for not only as pheasant hunting lab dogs, but also as a pet for families or therapy dogs to assist the blind and disabled.

With an AKC ranking of number one, the pheasant hunting lab dogs have been  placed in the family of gundog and retriever, with an original hunting function of water retrieving, even though it is easily trained for a wide variety of other functions. A powerful dog weighing about 65 to 80 pounds for the male and 55 to 70 pounds for the female, it stands about 22 inches at the withers, give or take depending on the sex. Considered as a moderate dog, the pheasant hunting lab dogs are not an extreme sort of dog—but rather mellow and easygoing. But like all dogs, they require exercise such as swimming and retrieving, which is where the dog’s heart is at. A rather sociable dog, it loves company and is excellent around other pets, strangers, with a high affectionate level.

The build of the Labrador is specific to carry game birds of all sizes and is considered a highly-qualified working retriever well deserving of the name pheasant hunting lab dogs. It has a broad head and strong jaws that are excellent for carrying pheasants and Canadian geese, and a heavy body and strong legs for swimming and running for retrieving. In natural colors of yellow, black or chestnut, this square compact moderately sized dog has an ease of training response that surpasses most other dogs.

There are plenty of birds out there for hunting - and they don’t all live on the water. The upland birds of North America come in all shapes and sizes - each presenting their own unique challenges and rewards. Popular upland game birds are listed here:

Pheasant - though originally native to China, the pheasant is nicely settled throughout most of North America, preferring to live near ample supplies of grain and insects.

Chukar - similar to the gray partridge, and hailing from the middle east the chukar is most commonly found in the western USA

Grouse - the ruffled grouse is usually found in Canada, though known to inhabit the northeast and northwest US, it grows up to 18ins in length and weighs around a pound and a half. The spruce grouse is found mostly in Canada, growing to about 18ins long and weighing between one and two pounds. The sage grouse is found in the north western states, growing to three feet long and weighing in at eight pounds. The sharp-tail is similar to prairie chickens, growing around a foot and a half long and weighing about two pounds, they eat a varied diet of grains, grasses and berries throughout the year

Quail - there are a number of quail subspecies on the continent. The majority of these weigh no more than 10oz fully grown and can reach around a foot in length. They prefer life in open grasslands with some trees and an ample water supply

Woodcock - the woodcock is distinguished by it’s long bill, designed for feeding on ground insects. They live in the eastern half of the US and rarely weigh in over 10oz.
Partridge - again, a number of subspecies live throughout the US and Canada. Partridge prefer grains for food and will weigh in at up to two pounds.

Doves - last but not least, doves are popular across the continent. A number of species pervade, but it’s the mourning dove that gets the most attention across the US and into Mexico. They are slight birds, with an average weight of just five ounces.

The single tip that more hunters get in trouble for disregarding every year is this: tag your kill. Whatever you’re hunting, wherever you are, there is little else that can get you into more trouble faster than disregarding the local regulations for displaying tags on your catch.

For birds, this might mean you need to leave the head attached or keep feathers on one of the wings. For larger game, this often means you’ve got to keep the sex organs attached, which is possible but tricky during field dressing.

Fines and other penalties for failing to properly tag your catch range from small monetary charges to serious action that may be taken by state or federal authorities. In some cases, you could face time in jail, confiscation of the carcass or even being banned from future hunts. At the end of the day, it takes a few seconds to pack your tag, a few seconds to fish it out of your hunt pack and a few seconds to attach it as required. It’s time well spent!